A taste of Tunis – Le Comptoir de Tunisie
This gem starts between the pages of a guide book called L’Orient a Paris. I got it to expand my list of Arab establishments throughout Paris and was delighted to learn about a Tunisian restaurant, walking distance from the Louvre. The Louvre’s magnificent and relatively new Islamic department is one of my favourite places to visit time and again. I also have a soft spot for North African cuisine. It's so deliciously spiced, and delightfully presented in its ornate dining ware.
So one day, after visiting the Louvre I decided to visit Comptoir du Tunisie. I still remember the joy bubbling up inside of me, the moment I entered and began absorbing my surroundings. The space skillfully wove traditional aspects with modern touches, instantly transporting me into a beautiful Tunisian haven.
Mehdi, the tasteful owner of the restaurant was there to welcome me and completed the charm with his intelligent and gracious manner and wry wit. I went upstairs and just couldn't stop smiling as I soaked in the delightful details. I must have looked quite silly, but I honestly didn't care as I spread beaming smiles left and right. I was served the dish of the day, as that was the only option on the menu, and it made me feel very much like I was visiting a Tunisian aunt who had cooked me a meal, would I have choice then? For those who love couscous as much as I do, you can find it on the menu every Wednesday, alternatingly served with fish and lamb. By the way le Comptoir serves lunch until about 2 o’clock in the afternoon but opens for dinner upon request, so it’s best to contact them before visiting if you are planning on a later meal.
I spoke with Mehdi and got to know that he started the project as an expression of love for Tunis. His father is Tunisian and his mother, French. He grew up in France and considers it his home, but he always felt a longing for Tunis, so he decided to bring a bit of Tunis and its lovely spirit to Paris through his beautiful restaurant. He explained how some of the items that made up this charming space were traditional, but most had been given a modern twist by artisans he had commissioned in Tunis. The work of understanding one's roots and maintaining its presence, by both preserving and evolving them is something I have long admired in individuals. The task can look deceptively simple but in reality it takes an old and wise soul to see the value of such an enterprise and to have the savviness to blend present day aesthetics and tastes into an experience that makes one's culture, history and a way of life so accessible. I also loved how Mehdi had the practical thoughtfulness to take the empty plates into the kitchen to help the chef clean up.
It was a special pleasure to meet the strong, hardworking and talented chef, Saeeda. She learned to cook as she helped her mom on special occasions and then when she left to get married, she continued to learn more and to become a master at her craft. The food was divine and reminded me again of going to an aunt's home to eat and not any aunt but the star of the family where food was concerned. She even pointed me to the cookies she had prepared versus the ready ones. I loved them and I don't even like cookies.
This part restaurant, part Tunisian artisana shop is as unique, personal and beautiful an interpretation of Tunisian hospitality and craftsmanship as you can find.. a true gem. I hope you get to visit them one day and if you do, please send photos of your food and the space and pass on my warmest regards to Saeeda and Mehdi.
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